Staying on shore is the sensible thing to do. But they start paddling. Why do these large wave surfers put their lives in danger to ride enormous waves as big as mountains?
The solution is getting over fear.
A detailed examination of the 2021–22 large wave season is provided in “Ground Swell: The Other Side of Fear” by Nic Von Rupp, Kai Lenny, Matt Bromley, Torrey Meister, and trailblazing female surfer Bianca Valenti.
As they face enormous waves in places like Mavericks in Northern California, Jaws and Pipeline in Hawaii, and Nazare in Portugal, they all overcome their fears and discover what lies on the other side.